September 2006 Recipe

Salmon with a Crispy Skin and Saffron Butter Sauce

Striped bass or any fish with a tender skin that sears to be crisp can be substituted for the salmon. Saffron colors butter sauce golden, while a bed of Fennel for Fish (see below) makes a nice accompaniment.

Serves 4

For the Saffron Butter Sauce:

• 2 tablespoons dry white wine

• 2 tablespoon white wine vinegar

• 2 shallots, very finely chopped

• large pinch of saffron threads soaked in 1 tablespoon boiling water

• 2 tablespoons heavy cream

• 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks) cold butter, cut in small pieces

• salt and pepper to taste

• For the Salmon:

• 1 to 2 salmon fillets, scaled with skin (about 1 1/2 pounds)

• 1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil for the pan

Make the sauce: Put the white wine, vinegar, shallots, and saffon in a small heavy saucepan. Boil until the liquid is reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Add the cream, reduce again to 2 tablespoons, and remove from heat. Add 2 to 3 cubes cold butter, whisking vigorously so the butter softens and thickens the sauce. Add more cubes of butter, several at a time, whisking constantly and if necessary returning the pan to low heat. When all the butter has been added, the sauce should be just soft enough to pour. Do not let the pan get more than hand-warm. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning.

Prepare the salmon: Preheat the oven to 425 F. If your frying pan does not fit in the oven, heat a baking sheet. Run your fingers over the flesh and if you feel any bones, pull them out with tweezers. Cut the salmon in 4 portions and season both sides with salt and pepper. Oil the base of a large heavy frying pan or skillet and heat it until very hot. Add the salmon, skin side down. Fry it over high heat without moving the pieces, 2 to 3 minutes, until the skin is crisp. When brown, it will shrink and loosen from the surface of the pan. Turn the pieces skin side up. Transfer them to the oven in the pan or on the heated baking sheet and bake until done to your taste, 1 to 3 minutes for medium salmon, 4 to 5 minutes for well done. The cooking time will vary with the thickness of the fillets.

Set the salmon skin side up on warm plates with the butter sauce spooned around it, and pass any remaining sauce separately. Serve immediately while the skin is crisp.

Getting ahead: You can brown the salmon skin up to 3 hours ahead, though it will soften a bit on standing. Keep the salmon in the refrigerator, then finish cooking in the oven and make the sauce at the last minute.

Fennel for Fish

The anise flavor of fennel has an affinity for fish, and this delicious sauté takes no time at all. 

Serves 3 to 4

Thinly slice 2 fennel bulbs (about 1 pound), cutting through stem and root so the slices hold together. Melt 3 tablespoons butter in a large frying pan, add the fennel, and sprinkle with 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, salt, and pepper. Cover tightly with aluminum foil, add a lid, and cook over low heat so the fennel softens and cooks in its own juices until it is tender, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove the lid, raise the heat, and sauté the fennel until lightly browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in 2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley and 2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme, then taste and adjust seasoning.