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July 2010
Scrambled Eggs with Wild Mushrooms
Oeufs Brouillés aux Champignons Sauvages
photo by France Ruffenach
In
France as everywhere else, cooks are spending less time in the
kitchen and dishes like scrambled eggs and soft-boiled eggs are
right in style. In the foothills of the Alps and Savoy in
spring, you will find local morels in a brouillade of
scrambled eggs, and later in the year, the full range of
chanterelles, oyster mushrooms, hedgehogs, and cèpes will be
joined together with butter and herbs in one glorious scramble.
Serve the eggs with crusty country bread or on a slice of toast.
Serves 4
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8
ounces/225 g mixed wild mushrooms
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4
tablespoons/60 g butter
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1
tablespoon chopped fresh parsley
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1
tablespoon chopped fresh chives
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Salt and pepper
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8
eggs
Clean the mushrooms. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in a
frying pan over high heat. Add the mushrooms and sauté, stirring
often, until they are tender and all the liquid they released
has evaporated, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the parley and chives
and season with salt and pepper. The mushrooms can be cooked an
hour or two ahead and left at room temperature.
If necessary,
warm the cooked mushrooms. To scramble the eggs, whisk them in a
bowl with a little salt and pepper. Melt the remaining 2
tablespoons butter in a heavy saucepan over low heat. Add the
eggs, and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until
they begin to thicken. This should take at least 5 minutes.
Continue stirring, lifting the pan from the heat as necessary so
the eggs thicken smoothly and form quite small curds. In France,
scrambled eggs are served soft, but you may prefer them almost
set. When cooked to your taste, stir in the mushrooms. Taste,
adjust the seasoning, and serve at once on warmed plates.
Excerpted from THE COUNTRY COOKING OF FRANCE
by Anne Willan, Chronicle Books, 2007.
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