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March 2004 Recipe

Roast Pork with a Herb-Mustard Crust

Rack of pork - the loin including the rib bones - makes an excellent party roast when topped with a savory breadcrumb mixture that cooks to be brown and crisp. The topping sticks to the meat surface, thanks to a brushing with Dijon mustard, which can be mild or hot, according to your taste. Dijon, or any French mustard, is perfect for cooking as the flavor is so complex. Take your pick of mustard from Dijon, which has a clean, sharp taste, smooth and mild Bordeaux mustard, or mustard from Meaux, which is dark and rougher in texture as it includes seeds. The pork is just as delicious served cold as it is hot.

Ingredients
Serves 6-8

  • 3-4 Ib pork loin, with rib bones

  • salt and pepper

  • 2 tablespoons vegetable oil

For the topping

  • 3 tablespoons butter

  • 2-3 garlic cloves, chopped

  • 2 shallots, chopped

  • 1 teaspoon ground cumin

  • 1 teaspoon ground paprika

  • 5-6 tablespoons chopped parsley

  • 3/4 cup dry browned breadcrumbs

  • 3 tablespoons Dijon mustard

For the gravy

  • 1 cup medium dry white wine 1
  • 1 1/2 cups veal or chicken stock

1. Heat the oven to 400°F. Trim any excess fat from the pork. If necessary, scrape the rib bones clean. Sprinkle the meat with salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a roasting pan and brown the fat-covered surface of the pork over medium heat, taking 5-7 minutes. Set the roast ribs-down and roast it in the oven, basting occasionally, 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, make the topping: Melt the butter and saute the garlic and shallots until soft and fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Stir in the cumin and paprika and continue cooking 1 minute. Take from the heat and stir in the parsley and breadcrumbs.

3. After 30 minutes' cooking, brush the surface of the pork with the mustard and spread it with the topping, pressing so it forms a crust. Turn down the oven heat to 375°F. Continue roasting the meat without basting for another 30-40 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the center of the meat is hot to the touch when withdrawn. A meat thermometer should register 165°F. Transfer the meat to a platter and cover it loosely with foil.

4. For the gravy: Add the wine to the roasting pan and simmer, stirring to dissolve pan juices, until the wine is reduced almost to a glaze. Add the stock and simmer until well flavored, 2 minutes or longer if necessary. Strain the gravy into a small pan, reheat it and taste for seasoning. For serving, carve the pork at table, cutting vertically down between the rib bones to form chops. Serve the gravy separately.

Getting Ahead: By all means prepare the pork and topping ahead, but the meat must be freshly roasted if you are serving it hot.

On the Side: My favorite accompaniment for almost any roast meat is potatoes, pan­roasted in the oven with the meat and perfect with the pan gravy. You'll find out all about it, and other potato ideas on page 69. If you prefer to serve the pork cold, I would add a salad of root vegetables such as beets, root celery, or simply potatoes, dressed in an olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette.

In the Glass: To partner mustard from Dijon, a Pinot Noir would be in order, perhaps from Oregon, South Africa, or Chile instead of Burgundy itself.

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