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March 2004 Recipe
Roast Pork with a Herb-Mustard Crust

Rack of
pork - the loin including the rib bones - makes an excellent party
roast when topped with a savory breadcrumb mixture that cooks to
be brown and crisp. The topping sticks to the meat surface, thanks
to a brushing with Dijon mustard, which can be mild or hot,
according to your taste. Dijon, or any French mustard, is perfect
for cooking as the flavor is so complex. Take your pick of mustard
from Dijon, which has a clean, sharp taste, smooth and mild
Bordeaux mustard, or mustard from Meaux, which is dark and rougher
in texture as it includes seeds.
The pork is just as delicious served cold as it is hot.
Ingredients
Serves 6-8
For the topping
-
3 tablespoons
butter
-
2-3 garlic
cloves, chopped
-
2 shallots,
chopped
-
1 teaspoon
ground cumin
-
1 teaspoon
ground paprika
-
5-6 tablespoons
chopped parsley
-
3/4 cup dry
browned breadcrumbs
-
3 tablespoons
Dijon mustard
For the gravy
- 1 cup medium dry white wine 1
- 1
1/2 cups veal or chicken stock
1. Heat the
oven to 400°F. Trim any excess fat from the pork. If necessary,
scrape the rib bones clean. Sprinkle the meat with salt and
pepper. Heat the oil in a roasting pan and brown the fat-covered
surface of the pork over medium heat, taking 5-7 minutes. Set the
roast ribs-down and roast it in the oven, basting occasionally, 30
minutes.
2. Meanwhile,
make the topping: Melt the butter and saute the garlic and
shallots until soft and fragrant, 2-3 minutes. Stir in the cumin
and paprika and continue cooking 1 minute. Take from the heat and
stir in the parsley and breadcrumbs.
3. After 30
minutes' cooking, brush the surface of the pork with the mustard
and spread it with the topping, pressing so it forms a crust. Turn
down the oven heat to 375°F. Continue roasting the meat without
basting for another 30-40 minutes, until a skewer inserted in the
center of the meat is hot to the touch when withdrawn. A meat
thermometer should register 165°F. Transfer the meat to a platter
and cover it loosely with foil.
4. For the
gravy: Add the wine to the roasting pan and simmer, stirring to
dissolve pan juices, until the wine is reduced almost to a glaze.
Add the stock and simmer until well flavored, 2 minutes or longer
if necessary. Strain the gravy into a small pan, reheat it and
taste for seasoning. For serving, carve the pork at table, cutting
vertically down between the rib bones to form chops. Serve the
gravy separately.
Getting Ahead:
By all means prepare the pork and topping ahead, but the meat
must be freshly roasted if you are serving it hot.
On the Side:
My favorite accompaniment for almost any roast meat is
potatoes, panroasted in the oven with the meat and perfect with
the pan gravy. You'll find out all about it, and other potato
ideas on page 69. If you prefer to serve the pork cold, I would
add a salad of root vegetables such as beets, root celery, or
simply potatoes, dressed in an olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette.
In the Glass:
To partner mustard from Dijon, a Pinot Noir would be in order,
perhaps from Oregon, South Africa, or Chile instead of Burgundy
itself.
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