1. Heat the oven to 325° F/160° C/Gas 3. Pare
the zest from 1 orange and cut into the thinnest possible
julienne strips. Cut the pith and skin from the orange and
remove 6 good-sized segments. Set them and the julienne aside
for garnish. Grate the zest from the remaining two oranges.
2. Scald the wine with grated orange zest,
cinnamon sticks, cloves and cardamom pods, cover and leave over
low heat to infuse 10 to 15 minutes. Stir the egg yolks and 1/2
cup sugar until mixed. Stir the infused wine into the yolks and
sugar, adding the hot wine slowly and stirring constantly so as
not to curdle the yolks. Strain the custard into a pitcher and
pour it into the ramekins. To ensure a smooth, shiny surface to
the finished custard, cover each with a demitasse saucer as lid.
3. Set the ramekins in a roasting pan, and
make a water bath by filling the pan with hot water to come
halfway up the sides of the ramekins. Bring the water to the
boil on top of the stove, transfer the bath to the heated oven
and cook until the custards are almost set, but still shiver in
the center if shaken, 10-12 minutes. They will be less set than
a milk custard, but will thicken as they cool. Take great care
not to overcook, or they will curdle. Lift the custards out of
the water bath and let them cool at room temperature. They keep
well in the refrigerator for up to 12 hours but be sure to cover
them.
4. Meanwhile candy the julienne of orange
zest. Put the zest in a small pan with the remaining 2
tablespoons sugar and 2 tablespoons water. Heat gently until the
sugar dissolves, then simmer very slowly, stirring occasionally,
until the syrup has evaporated and the zests are candied and
transparent, 5-7 minutes. Turn them onto wax paper, pull them
apart with 2 forks, and leave to cool. Once cool, keep them
tightly covered.
5. To finish, remove the lids and top each
custard with a segment of orange and a pinch of candied orange
zest, and serve chilled.
What Wine
To Cook and To Drink: The name of this
dessert prompts me to suggest an orange muscat wine -- though
the association is based more on name and color than on flavor.
Orange muscat comes from Madera County in California's San
Joaquin Valley and, like most muscats, its perfume is chiefly
that of fresh-picked grapes. There are other muscats from
California which will suffice, not to mention many from
Australia, South Africa, France or Italy. Come to that, Romania,
Greece and some of the former Soviet republics have a creditable
line in muscats too.
This Recipe of the Month
selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne
Willan Cooking With Wine (2001) published by Harry N.
Abrams, Inc. in association with COPIA: American Center for
Wine, Food, and the Arts.