1.
Melt half the butter in a frying pan, add the fennel with salt
and pepper and press a piece of foil on top. Cook over medium
heat 3 to 5 minutes until the fennel is softened but still
fairly crisp. Stir the chopped dill into the fennel, taste and
adjust the seasoning.
2. To
shape the paper cases: Fold each sheet of parchment paper in
half lengthwise and trim one end to a point along the fold. Cut
the other end in a curve so that when the paper is opened flat
it forms a heart shape. Melt the remaining butter and brush the
paper.
3.
Spread a bed of fennel on each paper, just to one side of the
fold and leaving a 3-inch/7.5-cm border of paper. Top with the
salmon and sprinkle the fish with the vermouth, salt and pepper.
Add a dill sprig. Fold the paper back over the salmon and press
the edges together. Starting at the curved side, pleat the paper
on itself to seal the edges, working around to finish at the
point with a quick twist of the paper. You can prepare the paper
cases up to 2 hours ahead and the fish will marinate and pick up
flavor from the vermouth. However, be sure the fennel is quite
cold before you set the raw salmon on top.
4. To
finish: Heat the oven to 375°F/190°C/Gas 5. Transfer the
packages to a baking sheet and bake in the oven until they are
puffed up and brown, 15 to 20 minutes. When cooked, steam from
the fish and fennel swells the paper into a balloon. Transfer
the packages to warm plates and serve at once as they deflate as
quickly as a soufflé.
Quick Fix
Foil packages are quicker to shape than the traditional
parchment paper, though you’ll miss the enticing brown of the
cooked paper package.
What Wine
To Cook: Extra dry vermouth – but do not use a
long-opened bottle as it may be slightly oxidized and spoil the
dish.
To Drink: Choosing a wine to drink with this attractive
dish is complicated by the anise accent of the fennel. A good
solution would be a wine from Provence where fish and fennel so
often go together. Seek out a dry white or rosé from Bandol or
Cassis, and serve it well chilled.
This Recipe of the Month
selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne
Willan Cooking With Wine (2001) published by Harry N.
Abrams, Inc. in association with COPIA: American Center for
Wine, Food, and the Arts.
