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September 2002

SOLE WITH GREEN GRAPES
IN A WHITE WINE SAUCE

Sole Véronique

Small boiled potatoes are the classic accompaniment to sole véronique. Personally I like to leave on some of the skins, peeling an “equator” around each potato for contrast of color.

INGREDIENTS:
Serves 4 as a main course

 
1 cup/250 ml/8 fl oz medium-dry white wine
  1 cup/175 g/6 oz seedless green grapes, halved if large
  2 cups/500 ml/16 fl oz fish stock
  1 1/2 lb/750 g sole fillets, skin removed
  2 shallots, chopped
  2 tablespoons butter, more for the pan
  2 tablespoons flour
  for the liaison
  2 egg yolks
  1/2 cup/125 ml/4 fl oz cr²me fraÓche or heavy cream

1. Put the grapes and wine in a pan and simmer until the grapes are lightly cooked, about l minute. (Take care not to overcook them as they will burst.) Lift them out with a draining spoon and set them aside. Add stock to the pan and boil until the liquid is reduced by half.

2. Meanwhile butter a heavy frying pan and sprinkle it with the shallots. Wash the sole fillets, dry them on paper towels fold them in three with the ends tucked under, skinned side inwards. Set them in the pan.

3. Pour over the reduced wine and stock and cover with a round of parchment paper. Add the lid and bring the pan to a boil. Poach the fish until it is starting to flake when tested with a fork but is still very firm in the center, 2 to 3 minutes – it will be cooked further in the sauce. Let cool slightly, then transfer the fillets to a plate with a draining spoon. Boil to reduce the cooking liquid to about a cup/250 ml/250 ml/8 fl oz.

4. For the velouté sauce: Melt the butter in a saucepan, whisk in the flour and cook until foaming. Strain in the cooking liquid and bring the sauce to a boil, whisking constantly until it thickens. Simmer it 1 to 2 minutes – it will generously coat a spoon. For the liaison: Mix the egg yolks and cream in a small bowl and stir in some of the hot sauce. Add this mixture to the remaining sauce and reheat it, stirring, until it thickens slightly. Do not let it boil or it will curdle. Take it from the heat and stir in the grapes and any liquid, together with any liquid which has leaked from the fish. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning.

5. Dry the sole fillets on paper towels and set them in individual heatproof gratin dishes or one large dish. Coat them completely with sauce. The sole can be prepared ahead and kept a few hours in the refrigerator, though fish is always at its best freshly cooked.

6. Just before serving, heat the broiler and brown the fish until the sauce is glazed. If reheating, this should be done in a hot oven so the fish warms through at the same time.

What Wine:
To Cook and To Drink: Nothing works so well with sole V³ronique -- for cooking as well as drinking -- as a fine riesling. Germany, of course, provides the prototype for this elegant white but to my taste those from France's Alsace region are preferable with food as they are drier on the palate. Another good but less familiar riesling source is Canada's Ontario province.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan Cooking With Wine (2001) published by Harry N. Abrams, Inc. in association with COPIA: American Center for Wine, Food, and the Arts.

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