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 May 2002

Fresh Fettuccine with Bacon,
Tomatoes & Chili
Fettucine all’Amatriciana

The distinctive taste of fresh white wine pasta blends well with a simple topping. To keep the fettuccine 1-2 days before cooking them, let them dry 1-2 hours. Then toss them with flour and spread them on a dish towel on a tray. Cover with a second towel and refrigerate them.

INGREDIENTS:
Makes about 4 servings

 
pasta dough made with 3 cups/375 g/12 oz flour, more if needed (see below)
  l tablespoon olive oil
  6 oz/175 g piece of bacon, diced
  1 onion, thinly sliced
  2 lb/1 kg tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
  1/2 cup/125 ml/4 fl oz white wine
  large pinch of hot red pepper flakes (peperoncino)
  salt and pepper
  grated Parmesan cheese (for serving)
1. Make the pasta dough (see below) and roll each piece to almost the thinnest setting. Change the machine attachment to the fettuccine cutter and run each strip of dough through it. Drape the fettuccine to dry over a broom handle set on two chairs until firm but still pliable, 10-30 minutes depending on the moistness of the dough and humidity of the day.

2. For the sauce: Heat the oil in a frying pan and fry the bacon until the fat runs. Add the onion and continue frying until bacon and onion are brown. Stir in the tomatoes, wine and pepper flakes and simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce is thickened. 12-15 minutes. Taste it, adjust the seasoning and set it aside.

3. To finish: Bring a large pan of salted water to a boil. Reheat the sauce. Add the fettucine to the boiling water and stir to separate the strands. Simmer until al dente, chewy to the teeth, approximately 1 minute. Drain, return to the pan with the sauce and toss briefly before serving. Alternatively, pile the drained pasta in warm bowls and spoon the sauce on top. Serve grated Parmesan cheese separately.

White Wine Pasta Dough
3 cups/375 g/12 oz flour, more if needed
2 eggs
1/2 cup/125 ml/4 fl oz dry white wine
1 teaspoon salt
pasta rolling machine

1. Sift the flour on to a work surface and make a well in the center. Add the eggs to the well with the wine and salt and work them together with your fingers until well mixed. Gradually draw in the flour with the fingers of both hands to make crumbs. Continue working until the crumbs are sticky, then press the dough together in a ball. If the dough is sticky, work in more flour; it should be so stiff that kneading it is hard work.

2. I like to use the rolling machine to knead as well as roll the dough: Divide the dough in 2-3 pieces and cover all but one with a cloth. Set the machine at its widest setting and work the dough through it. Fold the dough in two or three and continue working through the machine until the dough is satin-smooth and elastic, 5-7 times, dusting with flour if it seems sticky. Don’t hesitate to work in extra flour as the dough should be very stiff.

3. When very smooth, start reducing the machine settings until the dough is rolled to a strip the thickness of a file folder, almost the thinnest setting. Continue with the remaining dough and use as directed in the individual recipe. Fresh pasta dough dries quickly, so it should be cut or shaped at once. Keep strips covered with a cloth while working with the remaining dough.

Quick Fix
To make the dough in a food processor: Work the flour, eggs, and salt to fine crumbs, about 30 seconds. Pour in the wine with the blades turning and continue working until the dough forms quite coarse crumbs, 1-2 minutes. Turn the crumbs onto a board and press them into a ball. Knead the dough in the pasta machine as directed.

What Wine:
To Cook: As in the pasta dough, any medium dry white does fine for this tomato-based topping.
To Drink: Pasta surely calls out for an Italian wine at table, red or white as you prefer. If you opt for an American equivalent, be sure it is on the dry side. Many domestic reds promoted as ideal for pasta are, in fact, nearly port-like in their high sugar content.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan Cooking With Wine (2001) published by Harry N. Abrams, Inc. in association with COPIA: American Center for Wine, Food, and the Arts.

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