1. Cut
the lamb into 2-inch/5-cm cubes, discarding sinew and fat. Layer
it in a non-metallic bowl with the marinade ingredients and pour
over the wine. Cover and refrigerate at least 12 hours and up to
a day and a half, stirring occasionally.
2.
Heat the oven to 400 F/200 C/Gas 6. Blanch the calf's or pig's
foot by putting it in cold water, bringing it to a boil,
simmering it 5 minutes and then draining. Cut skin from the
bacon in one piece and set it in the bottom of an earthenware
pot or heavy casserole (it will prevent the ingredients sticking
on the bottom. Cut the meat into dice (lardons). Drain the meat,
strain and reserve the marinade. Tie the flavorings in
cheesecloth.
3.
Layer the ingredients as follows: lamb, bacon, olives, onions,
carrots, tomatoes, and garlic and top with fresh pepper. Tuck
the calf's or pig's foot down one side with the bag of
flavorings. Pour over the reserved marinade and add water to
just cover. Add the lid and bring to a simmer in the oven - this
will take about half an hour but may vary with the thickness of
your casserole.
4.
Lower the oven heat to 300F /150 C/Gas 2 and cook the daube
until the lamb is tender enough to crush easily between your
finger and thumb, 2 to 2 1/2 hours.
5. The
calf's or pig's foot will not yet be done. Transfer it to a
saucepan. Pour over as much cooking liquid from the daube as you
can conveniently drain and set the meat and vegetables aside.
Add the bag of flavorings to the foot, cover and simmer on the
stove 2 to 2 1/2 hours longer until the meat is tender and
gelatinous. Take out the foot and boil the broth to reduce to
about 2 cups/500 ml/16 fl oz. Meanwhile discard the bones from
the foot and dice the meat and skin; add it to the lamb and
vegetables.
6.
When the broth is well reduced, taste it and adjust the
seasoning - salt may not be needed as the olives and bacon are
already salty. Pour the broth over the meat and vegetables. If
you can, keep the daube covered a day or two in the refrigerator
as the flavor will mellow wonderfully.
7. To
finish, reheat the daube, stir in the parsley, and check the
seasoning once more. Serve it from the casserole along with a
loaf of country bread.
WHAT WINE
To Cook: This recipe calls for a white
wine but Provence is not the place to look as its production is
almost entirely red or rosé. However, in neighbouring Languedoc
plenty of brightly-flavored, well-priced whites are now
available, including chardonnay and the more traditional "picpoul
de pinet", a personal favorite.
To Drink: At the table, I'd revert to
one of the increasingly impressive reds from the Côtes de
Provence or the Côteaux d'Aix-en-Provence. The best winemakers
there have radically improved their syrah and grenache-based
wines by the addition of cabernet sauvignon.
This Recipe of the Month
selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne
Willan Cooking With Wine (2001) published by Harry N.
Abrams, Inc. in association with COPIA: American Center for
Wine, Food, and the Arts.
