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February 2002

 DRUNKEN CHICKEN

I came across this amusing recipe in an old South African cookbook and could not resist the name. Not only are two kinds of white wine plus some brandy called for, but the drier wine which is used for a marinade is then thrown away - testimony to the abundance of wine in the fertile Cape province. The chicken roasts surprisingly fast in less than an hour, turning to an even, glowing brown - indeed, my only caution is to avoid letting it color too much. The pearl barley, prune and apricot pilaf is an appetizing brown, too, studded with the rich colors of the fruit. If you want to get ahead, the pilaf keeps well for several days in the refrigerator, but the chicken is best freshly roasted.
 

INGREDIENTS:
Makes about 4 servings

 
a 4-5-lb/2 kg roasting chicken
  salt and pepper
  1/4 cup/60 g/2 oz butter
  1 cup/250 ml/8 fl oz sweet white wine
  1 tablespoon flour
  1 cup/250 ml/8 fl oz chicken stock
 
FOR THE MARINADE
  2 cups/500 ml/16 fl oz dry white wine
  1/4 cup/60 ml/2 fl oz brandy
  1 carrot, grated
 
1 onion, grated
  2 bay leaves
  2-3 sprigs thyme
  2-3 sprigs marjoram or parsley
 
FOR THE PEARL BARLEY
  1 cup/200 g/6 1/2 oz pearl barley
  1 onion, chopped
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 cups/500 ml/16 fl oz chicken stock, more if needed
  1/4 cup/60 g/2 oz pitted prunes, chopped
  1/4 cup/60 g/2 oz dried apricots, chopped
  1/4 cup/60 g/2 oz slivered almonds
  2 tablespoons chopped marjoram or parsley

1. Wipe the chicken inside and out with paper towels. Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a large heavy-duty plastic bag set over a bowl. Add the chicken and seal the bag with as little air as possible, leaving it in the bowl. Marinate the chicken in the refrigerator, turning it from time to time, for a day - the bag ensures it is kept moist with marinade.

2. To roast the chicken: Heat the oven to 425 F/220 C/Gas 7. Take the chicken from the marinade, pat it dry with paper towels and sprinkle it inside and out with salt and pepper. Discard the marinade. Truss the chicken, set it on its back in a roasting pan, cut the butter in slices and set them on the breast. Roast the chicken in the oven, basting often, until it sizzles and starts to brown, about 15 minutes. Turn it onto one leg and continue roasting 15 minutes, basting often. Turn the bird onto the other leg and finally onto its back to finish cooking allowing 50 minutes to 1 hour total cooking time. To test, lift the bird with a two-pronged fork and pour juice from the cavity; it should run clear, not pink.

3. Meanwhile cook the pearl barley: melt the butter in a heavy pan, add the onion and sauté, stirring occasionally, until it is soft but not brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the barley and sauté 2 to 3 minutes until the grains look transparent. Add the stock with salt and pepper, cover and bring to a boil. Simmer until all the liquid is absorbed, 30 to 40 minutes. Taste, and if the barley is not tender, add more stock and continue simmering.

4. Meanwhile toast the almonds: spread them on a baking sheet and brown them in the oven with the chicken for 2 to 3 minutes, watching carefully that they don't burn. Let them cool. When the barley is cooked, sprinkle the prunes, apricots and almonds on top and leave, covered, to keep warm. The barley can be stored in the refrigerator up to 2 days and reheated on top of the stove just before serving.

5. When the chicken is done, transfer it to a platter and cover it with foil to keep warm. Discard fat from the pan, stir in the flour and cook, stirring, 1 minute. Add the sweet white wine and simmer 1 to 2 minutes, stirring to dissolve the juices. Add the stock and simmer again until the gravy is slightly thickened and reduced by half. Strain it into a saucepan, reheat it, taste and adjust the seasoning.

6. If necessary, reheat the pearl barley. Add marjoram or parsley, stir to mix all the ingredients and taste for seasoning. Discard trussing strings from the chicken and spoon the barley around it. Moisten it with a little gravy and serve the rest separately.

What Wine
To Cook: South Africa's recent political renaissance has prompted the reappearance of its wines in US markets at very attractive prices. For the marinade, any dry white will do but, for authenticity's sake, it would be fun to start with a South African wine, perhaps a Cape riesling. For the sauce, a luscious sweet white is needed and a muscat from the Constantia or Robertson district would be ideal.

To Drink: Sticking to the South African theme at table, I'd suggest a sauvignon blanc or chardonnay from Stellenbosch -- one with sufficient fruit to match the muscat in the sauce and the prunes and apricots in the pearl barley.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan Cooking With Wine (2001) published by Harry N. Abrams, Inc. in association with COPIA: American Center for Wine, Food, and the Arts.

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