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September 2001

PUMPKIN SOUP WITH WILD CHESTNUTS

All four of the main ingredients for this 18th century soup grow at Château du Fey: pumpkin, onions, and potatoes in the garden, and wild chestnuts in the avenue outside the gate. Wild chestnuts are lighter, more floury, than the familiar cultivated marrons and either can be used here. I prefer the sugar variety of pumpkin, with deep orange flesh and plenty of flavor. For a spectacular presentation, I use a second pumpkin as a soup tureen, hollowing it out and then warming it in a low oven before adding the finished soup. As this is a holiday recipe, quantities here are generous, enough for a large family gathering of ten to twelve.

INGREDIENTS:
Serves 10 to 12

 
6 to 8 lb/about 3 kg whole pumpkin or pumpkin pieces
  3 tablespoons/45 g butter
  4 oz/125 g piece of bacon, diced
  2 onions (about 1 lb/500 g), sliced
  2 potatoes (about 1 lb/500 g), diced
  2 garlic cloves, chopped
  1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, more to taste
  pinch of cayenne
  salt and pepper
  1 1/2 quarts/1 1/2 liters chicken stock, more if needed
  1 lb/500 g wild or cultivated fresh chestnuts
  1 quart/l liter/ milk, more if needed
  crème fraîche or heavy cream for garnish (optional)

For a whole pumpkin, cut a slice from the top and base using a sturdy knife. Set the pumpkin firmly on a board and cut away the peel, working from top to base in a curving motion. Cut the peeled flesh into 1-in/2.5-cm chunks, discarding the seeds. If using pumpkin pieces, cut away the peel, discard any seeds, and cut the flesh into chunks.

Melt the butter in a large soup pot, add the bacon, and fry it until crisp, 5 to 7 minutes. Lift it out with a slotted spoon and drain it on paper towels for garnish. Add the onion to the fat and fry until starting to brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Stir in the potato and garlic, and cook just until fragrant. Add the pumpkin pieces, nutmeg, cayenne, salt, pepper, and enough stock to just cover the pumpkin. Cover with a lid, bring to a boil, and simmer until the potato and pumpkin are very tender, 30 to 40 minutes.

Meanwhile, light the broiler to cook the chestnuts. Poke each chestnut with a knife so they do not burst, then broil them, turning often, until they are tender, 8 to l2 minutes. Let them cool enough to handle, then peel them -- don’t worry if some of the chestnuts crumble.

When the pumpkin is tender, let the soup cool to tepid, and then purée it in the pan with a hand-held immersion blender, or use a food processor. Stir in the milk and bring the soup just to a boil, adding more milk if necessary so the consistency is rich and thick but not sticky. Stir in the diced bacon and most of the peeled chestnuts (set aside a few chestnut pieces for garnish). Reheat the soup for 1 or 2 minutes, taste, and adjust the seasoning.

Serve the soup in a whole pumpkin, cleaned of seeds, and warmed in the oven for 10 to 15 minutes. Alternatively, use individual warm soup bowls, swirling a spoonful of cream into each bowl and topping it with the reserved chestnuts.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson Potter/Publishers. April 2000) www.randomhouse.com

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