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March,
2001
Gratin of Potatoes with Bacon and Cream
Gratin Dauphinois au Lard
Monsieur
Milbert's potatoes are a cook's delight—he grows Belle de Fontenay,
which soften to floury lightness for frites, purées, and
gratins like this wonderfully rich Burgundian variant of my
favorite gratin dauphinois. The potatoes are first simmered
in milk (this extracts the tannin they contain, which is likely to
curdle the gratin) and then in cream with diced bacon and a
topping of Gruyère cheese. (Don't be put off by the word lard
in the French title; it simply means bacon.) This recipe makes
enough for six to eight hearty side portions. I always make large
quantities as potato gratin reheats well.
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INGREDIENTS:
Serves 6 to 8 |
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1
1/2
lb/750 g potatoes
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2
1/2
cups/600 ml milk, more if needed |
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pinch of grated nutmeg |
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salt
and pepper |
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1
tablespoon vegetable oil |
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a
4-oz/125-g piece of lean, smoked bacon, diced |
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1
1/4
cups/300 ml heavy cream, more if
needed |
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1
garlic clove, finely chopped |
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1/2
cup/50 g grated Gruyère cheese |
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a
9x13-inch/23x33-cm gratin or shallow baking dish |
Peel the potatoes and cut them into
1/8-inch/3-mm
slices, preferably using a mandoline. Put them in a saucepan
with the milk, nutmeg, pepper, and a little salt. Stir to mix
and bring them to a boil. If necessary, add more milk so the
potatoes are covered. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the
potatoes are just tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
Meanwhile, heat the oil in a frying pan, add
the bacon, and fry, stirring, until browned. Lift it out and
drain it on paper towels. Use the bacon fat to grease the baking
disk. Heat the oven to 375°F/190°C.
Drain the potatoes, reserving the milk for
another use such as soup. Wipe out the saucepan and put back the
potatoes with the bacon, cream, and garlic. Heat gently and
simmer, stirring occasionally, until the potatoes are very
tender, 5 to 10 minutes. They break up easily, so stir
carefully. The mixture should be quite creamy and liquid, not
stiff. If necessary, stir in more cream. Taste and adjust the
seasoning. Pour the potatoes with the cream into the baking
dish, spreading them evenly. Sprinkle the top with the grated
cheese.
Bake the gratin until golden brown and the
edges are bubbling, 15 to 20 minutes. Test the center with a
small knife—the blade should feel hot when withdrawn.
This Recipe of the Month
selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne
Willan From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson Potter/Publishers.
April 2000)
www.randomhouse.com
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