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January, 2001

Ham Steaks with Butternut Coulis

Monsierur Milbert cannot read the English titles on the seed packets we bring him, so he eyeballs the picture, makes a stab at the planting season, hopes for the best. Butternut squash, a rarity in France, was a success the first time - except that Monsieur Milbert mistook it for a summer squash and brought it in triumph with the first zucchini. Only with difficulty could I persuade him to wait until October to harvest these cold weather treasures when the flesh had ripened to a deep golden orange. Other winter squash such as pumpkin or acorn are equally good in this coulis, which I pair with ham steak for an autumnal dinner for four to six.

INGREDIENTS:
Serves 4 to 6

 
4 to 6 cooked ham steaks
(about 1 1/2 lb/750 g total)
  1 small butternut squash
(about 1 lb/500 g)
  1/4 cup/60 g butter
  2 medium leeks, white and pale green only, thinly sliced
  2 onions, finely chopped
  1 garlic clove, finely chopped
  1 1/2 cups/375 ml chicken stock
  1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
  1 tablespoon vegetable oil
  salt and white pepper
   
Peel the squash and cut it into 1 inch/2.5 cm chunks, discarding the seeds. Melt half the butter in a medium saucepan, add the leeks (avoid the darker green part, which would discolor the coulis) and onions, and cook over medium heat until soft but not brown, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the garlic and cook until fragrant, about 30 seconds. Add the squash, chicken stock, and brown sugar. Cover and simmer until the squash is very tender, 20 to 25 minutes.

When the squash is soft enough to mash with a spoon, transfer it with the onions and leeks to a food processor. Purée it with a little of the cooking liquid until very smooth. Work the purée through a sieve into a saucepan. Stir in enough of the remaining cooking liquid to make a coulis that is just thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Bring it just to a boil, remove it from the heat, taste, and adjust the seasoning. Set the coulis aside. Save any remaining cooking liquid as it may be needed to thin the coulis if you've made it ahead - it also makes a fine addition to a pot of soup.

To finish, heat the oil in a large skillet over high heat. Add the ham steak and fry until brown on both sides, 3 to 5 minutes per side. Meanwhile, bring the coulis just to a boil. Remove it from the heat and add the remaining butter, cut in pieces, swirling the pan so that the butter is incorporated smoothly without melting to oil. Set the ham steak on warm plates, spoon over a little coulis, and serve at once, passing the remaining coulis separately.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson Potter/Publishers. April 2000) www.randomhouse.com

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