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February, 2001

Poached Eggs in Red Wine Sauce
Oeufs en Meurette

Out comes our local fruity red Irancy wine for sauce meurette, a grand Burgundian classic served with poached eggs or fish. The quirky combination appeals to modern tastes, so you'll find it popping up on contemporary menus. For extra flavor, I like to poach the eggs in the wine, which is then used for the sauce — they emerge an odd purple hue, but this is later concealed by the glossy brown veil of sauce, In France, this recipe would serve four as two eggs are always allowed per person, but we often stretch it to eight. For poaching, it's well worth looking for farm-fresh eggs as they hold their shape better than store-bought eggs.

INGREDIENTS:
Serves 4 to 8

 
8 fresh eggs
  1 bottle (750 ml) red Burgundy Wine
  2 cups/500 ml brown veal or chicken stock
  1 onion, thinly sliced
  1 carrot, thinly sliced
  1 celery stalk, thinly sliced
  1 garlic clove, crushed
  a bouquet garni
  1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
  salt and pepper

  

For the Garnish
  2 tablespoons butter
  1/4 lb/125 g mushrooms, slices
  a 1/4-LB/125-g piece of bacon, diced
  16 to 20 baby onions, peeled

  

For the Croûtes
  8 slices of white bread,
1/4 in/6 mm thick
  oil for frying (optional)

   

For the Beurre Manié
  2 tablespoons butter
  2 tablespoons flour

To poach the eggs, bring the wine and stock to a vigorous boil in a large shallow pan, Break 4 eggs, one by one, into the places where the liquid is bubbling so the bubbles spin the eggs. Lower the heat and poach the eggs for 3 to 4 minutes, until the yolk is fairly firm but still soft to the touch. Gently lift out the eggs with a slotted spoon and drain them on paper towels. Poach the remaining eggs in the same way. Trim off the stringy edges of the eggs with scissors. Set the eggs aside.

Add the onion, carrot, celery, garlic, bouquet garni, and peppercorns to the pouching liquid and simmer until it is concentrated and reduced by half, 20 to 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, cook the garnish: Melt half of the butter in a medium saucepan, add the mushrooms, and sauté until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove the mushrooms, add the remaining butter and bacon, and fry until brown. Lift out the bacon and drain it on paper towels. Add the onions and sauté them gently until brown and tender, shaking the pan often so they color evenly, 10 to 15 minutes. Drain off all the fat, replace the mushrooms and bacon, and set the pan aside.

Make the croûtes. Using a round or oval cutter, cut the bread into 8 shapes just larger than a poached eggs. For fried croûtes, heat 1/4 inch/6 mm of oil in a frying pan over medium heat. Working in batches, fry the croûtes until browned on both sides, 1 to 2 minutes per side. Drain them on paper towels. Alternatively, if you prefer toasted croûtes, brush the rounds on both side with oil and bake them in an oven heated to 350°F/175°C for 10 to 15 minutes, turning them halfway through so they brown evenly on both sides. Set the croûtes aside.

To thicken the sauce, crush the butter on a plate with a fork and work in the flour to form a soft paste (called a beurre manié). Whisk the beurre manié, a piece at a time, into the simmering wine mixture until it becomes thick enough to lightly coat a spoon. Strain the sauce over the mushrooms, onion and bacon, pressing the vegetables in the strainer to extract all the liquid and flavor. Bring the sauce to a boil, taste and adjust the seasoning.

To finish the dish, reheat the eggs by immersing them in hot water for 1 minutes. Set the croûtes on warm serving plates. Drain the eggs on paper towels, set one on each croûte, and spoon over the sauce and garnish.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson Potter/Publishers. April 2000) www.randomhouse.com

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