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April, 2001

TWICE BAKED SPINACH SOUFFLES

I have a mental short list of recipes labelled “Best of the Best” and this is one of them. The soufflés are prepared well ahead so that the only last-minute action is to bake them in the oven, where they puff, infallibly, to flamboyant size. Lacking the necessary individual dishes, you can bake these soufflés in muffin cups and then brown them in sauce for serving in one large baking dish. This makes six appetizer-size soufflés.
 

INGREDIENTS:
Makes 6 servings

 
1 lb/500 g spinach
  1/3 cup/75 g butter
  1 onion, finely chopped
  1/4 cup/30 g flour
  1 1/2 cups/375 ml milk
  pinch of ground nutmeg
  salt and pepper
  5 egg yolks
  6 egg whites
  1 1/2 cups/375 ml light cream
  1/2 cup/50 g grated Gruyère cheese
  six 1-cup/250-ml ramekins
  six 6-in/l5-cm gratin dishes
   
Pull the stems from the spinach and wash the leaves in several changes of water. Pack the wet leaves in a large saucepan, cover it, and wilt the leaves over medium heat, stirring occasionally, 5 to 7 minutes. Drain the spinach and let it cool. Squeeze handfuls of spinach in your fists to extract the water, and then chop it. Melt 1 tablespoon of the butter in the saucepan, add the onion and sauté over medium heat until it is soft but not brown, 3 to 5 minutes. Stir in the spinach with salt and pepper and continue cooking, stirring, until it is quite dry, 2 to 3 minutes. Set it aside.

To make a white sauce: Melt the remaining butter in a saucepan, whisk in the flour, and cook until foaming but not browned, about 1 minute. Whisk in the milk, nutmeg, salt, and pepper and bring to a boil, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens. Simmer it for 2 minutes and then take it from the heat. Transfer about a third of the white sauce into a small saucepan and pour the cream on top so it coats the sauce and prevents a skin forming. Set it aside.

Generously butter the ramekins and chill them. Stir the spinach into the remaining sauce and heat until very hot. Take the mixture from the heat, taste, and adjust the seasoning; it should be well-seasoned to make up for the bland egg whites. Beat in the egg yolks a bit at a time so they cook in the heat of the sauce and thicken it slightly. Cover the saucepan with plastic wrap to prevent a skin forming on the spinach mixture.

Heat the oven to 350°F/175°C. Bring a roasting pan of water to a boil on the stove for a bain marie. Beat the egg whites until stiff, adding a pinch of salt to help stiffen them. Warm the spinach mixture gently until the pan is hot to the touch. Add about a quarter of the beaten egg whites and stir until well mixed. The heat of the sauce will cook the whites slightly. Add this mixture to the remaining whites and fold them together as lightly as possible.

Fill the ramekins with the mixture, smoothing the tops with a metal spatula. Run a thumb around the edge of each dish to detach the mixture so the soufflé rises straight. Set the ramekins in the bain marie, bring it back to a boil on the stove, and transfer it to the oven. Bake until the soufflés are puffed, browned, and just set in the center, 20 to 25 minutes. They should rise well above the rim of the dish. Take the ramekins from the bain marie and leave them to cool -- the soufflés will shrink back into the ramekins, pulling away slightly from the sides.

Turn each soufflé out into a gratin dish. Whisk the cream with the reserved sauce until smooth and bring it just to a boil. Season it to taste with salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and pour on top of the soufflés, letting it pool around the sides. Sprinkle them with the cheese. The soufflés can be kept, covered with plastic wrap, for up to 24 hours in the refrigerator.

To finish: Heat the oven to 425°F/220°C. Bake the soufflés until browned, slightly puffed, and the sauce is bubbling, 7 to 10 minutes. Serve them at once.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson Potter/Publishers. April 2000) www.randomhouse.com

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