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March, 2000

Sugar-Crusted Sponge Cakes

Chef Gautier uses little buckets-shaped molds inherited from his grandmother for these individual sponge cakes, but I've found that small cans, for example portion-sized soup cans, do fine. They should be about 3 1/4 in/8 cm in diameter and at least 1 1/2 cups/375 ml in volume. The cakes are coated with a crunchy sugar crust and are astonishingly light, thanks to the use of potato starch instead of flour and to the classic biscuit method in which the egg whites are whisked to a light meringue and then folded into the egg yolk batter. The recipe makes six individual cakes, and I like to serve them with fruit coulis or with berries and Wine Sauce.
 

INGREDIENTS:
Serves 6

 
3 to 4 tablespoons melted butter (for the molds)
  1 cup/200 g sugar, more for the molds
  2/3 cup/80 g potato starch
  large pinch of salt
  5 eggs, separated
  six 1 1/2-cup/375-ml cans
  
Heat the oven to 350°F/175°C. Next line the cans. (This takes longer than making the cake itself!) Thoroughly wash and dry the cans. Cut rounds of wax or parchment paper to fit their bases and strip to line the sides. Brush the rounds and then the strips on both sides with melted butter and press them into the cans so they adhere. Chill the cans for 2 minutes in the freezer and butter the paper again. Sprinkle very generously with sugar, tipping to coat the sides and shaking out the excess. Chill the cans in the refrigerator while you make the cakes. The aim here is a thick sugar crust on the finished cakes.

Sift the potato starch with the salt. Set aside 2 to 3 tablespoons of the sugar for the egg whites. Put the egg yolks with the remaining sugar in the bowl of an electric mixer. Sift the potato starch with the salt into the yolks. First stir until mixed, then beat with the mixer until the batter is light and forms a thick ribbon trail when the whisk is lifted, 3 to 5 minutes. Stiffly whisk the egg whites, add the reserved sugar, and continue beating until the whites form a very long peak when the whisk is lifted, in effect a light meringue. Fold about one third of this meringue into the egg yolk mixture, with about one third of the sifted potato starch. Add the remaining meringue and potato starch in two batches, folding together as lightly as possible.

Spoon the batter into the prepared cans, filling them about one half full. Bake them until risen, lightly browned, and just beginning to pull away from the sides of the cans, 20 to 25 minutes. Let them cool in the cans before unmolding them. They keep surprisingly well but are still best the day of baking.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson Potter/Publishers. April 2000) www.randomhouse.com

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