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June, 2000

Lobster In A Parcel

These crispy packages moistened with a lobster jus are an ideal dinner appetizer for four deserving guests, an inspiration of Jean-Michel Lorain. Given the luxury of the lobster, it's worth using a good Chardonnay wine.
 

INGREDIENTS:
Serves 4

 
a medium live lobster
(about 1 1/2 lb/750 g)
  2 tablespoons butter
  salt and pepper
  3 tablespoons Cognac
  2 shallots, finely chopped
  1 garlic clove, finely chopped
  1/2 small carrot, finely chopped
  1 cup/250 ml Chardonnay white wine
  1 cup/250 ml fish stock
  2 to 3 tablespoons crème fraîche or heavy cream

  

For The Pastry Cases
  4 sheets of phyllo pastry dough
  3 tablespoon melted butter

Set the lobster on a chopping board and cover the tail with a cloth. Hold the lobster firmly by the tail. Using the point of a large knife, pierce the shell at the center of the head all the way down to the chopping board. Continue cutting to split the head. Turn the lobster around and, holding the head, cut it in half lengthwise through the tail. Crack the claw shell by striking them with the back of the knife to break the shell without cutting through the claw meat; this allows the heat to penetrate during cooking.

Pull out and discard the stomach sac located just behind the eyes on each half. Remove the green liver (tomalley) and any greenish black coral, chop them coarsely, and reserve them.

To cook the lobster, melt the butter in a sauté pan. Set the lobster halves, cut-side up, in the pan and season the exposed flesh with salt and pepper. Cover the pan and cook over medium heat until the lobster shell is bright red and the meat is no longer transparent, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the Cognac and flame it either with a lighted match or by tilting the pan to catch the gas flame. (Stand back as the flames will rise high)

Remove the lobster halves from the pan and let then cool. For the jus, sauté the shallots, garlic, and carrots in the same pan that was used to cook the lobster, stirring often until well browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the wine and boil until reduced to a glaze, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the fish stock and boil again until well reduced with concentrated flavor, 8 to 10 minutes. Whisk in the reserved liver and coral (the coral turns red when cooked). Simmer the jus for 2 minutes and then strain it into a small pan, reserving the vegetables and setting then aside in a bowl. Taste the jus and adjust the seasoning.

When the lobster is cool enough to handle, pull out the tail meat and slice it on the diagonal. Remove the body meat, picking it out in pieces with a sharp skewer or a knife point. Add the lobster meat to the vegetables along with the cream and a couple of spoonfuls of jus. Extract the claw meat in one piece and halve each claw horizontally, making 4 pieces for garnish.

To assemble the parcels, unwrap, the phyllo dough and lay one sheet on the working surface. Cover the remaining sheets with a slightly damp towel. Brush the single sheet of dough lightly with melted butter, add another sheet, and brush it also. Continue until you have 4 layers, keeping the stack covered while you work so it doesn't dry out.

Butter a baking sheet. (Rewrap the leftover dough and keep it for another use.) Cut four 6-in/15-cm squares from the buttered sheets of phyllo. Spoon a quarter of the lobster filling in the center of each square. Pull in the corners of the squares to cover the filling completely. Flip the parcels so they are seam-side down and flatten them, shaping them in rounds like hamburger. Poke an air hole in the center of each package so steam can escape, set them on the baking sheet, and brush the tops with butter.

Cut the trimmings into 4 strips and loosely roll them, pinching together on one side, to resemble roses. Set them also on the baking sheet. The parcels and jus can be prepared up to 8 hours ahead and stored in the refrigerator. To finish, heat the oven to 375°F/190°C. Bake the packages until crisp and brown, 20 to 25 minutes. (Remove the roses after 10 to 12 minutes, or as soon as they are brown.) A skewer inserted in the center of each parcel should be hot to the touch when withdrawn after 30 seconds. Reheat the lobster jus and spoon it on 4 individual plates. Add the packages, top each with a rose and piece of claw, and serve at once.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's newest release: Anne Willan From My Château Kitchen (Clarkson Potter/Publishers. April 2000) www.randomhouse.com

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