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September, 1998

Thai Hot and Sour Shrimp Soup

There are two schools of thought on this classic Thai soup. Traditional Thai cooks leave all the seasonings in the soup so the diner has to extract the edible parts. Westerners often strain out the seasonings before adding the shrimp and mushrooms. Feel free to adjust the amounts of chili and lime juice to your taste, remembering that proper balance between the hot and sour flavors is the key.
 

INGREDIENTS:
Serves 4-6

 
1 lb/500 g medium raw shrimp,
in shells
  small bunch of fresh coriander
  3 stalks lemon grass
  1 2/3 cups/400 ml/13 fl oz coconut milk
  1/4 lb/125 g/4 oz straw mushrooms or thinly sliced button mushrooms
  2 tablespoons fish sauce
  juice of 1/2 lime, or to taste
  salt


  

For flavored bouillon
  1 tablespoon oil
  2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
  3 cups/750 ml/1 1/4 pints water
  4 kaffir lime leaves, or
pared zest of 2 limes
  1/2 teaspoon white pepper,
more if needed
  2-4 fresh chili peppers, cored, seeded and cut in thin strips

1. Strip and chop leaves from coriander, reserving stems. Peel and devein shrimp, reserving shells. Cut dry leafy top from lemon grass and peel away outer layers to reach moist tender core. Reserve outer layers. Crush core of lemon grass with flat side of a knife and thinly slice it.

2. Make flavored bouillon: Heat oil in a medium saucepan, add shrimp shells and sauté until they turn pink, 2-3 minutes. Add garlic and reserved layers of lemon grass and sauté, stirring, until fragrant, 1-2 minutes. Stir in water, reserved coriander stems, lime leaves or zest, white pepper and half the chilies. Bring to a boil, cover and simmer until well flavored, 20-25 minutes.

3. Strain bouillon into another saucepan, stir in coconut milk and bring to a boil. Season shrimp with salt and add to bouillon with mushrooms and sliced lemon grass. Simmer until shrimp and mushrooms are just done, 2-3 minutes. Stir in fish sauce, remaining chilies, lime juice, and chopped coriander leaves. Taste and adjust hot and sour seasonings. Serve at once, while still very fragrant.

Quick Fix

If I suspect shrimp, prawns or crayfish are bland, I often pick up their taste by making a quick seafood salad: For every 2 cups/375 g/3/4 pound peeled, cooked, chopped shellfish, combine 1 cup/150 g/5 oz chopped celery, 1/2 cup/125 ml/4 fl oz mayonnaise, 1 medium onion, finely chopped, 4 coarsely chopped hard boiled eggs, the juice of 1/2 a lemon, 1/2 teaspoon paprika, salt and pepper. Add the shellfish and stir to mix. Season to taste and pile on a bed of salad greens. Serves 3-4.

This Recipe of the Month selection comes from Anne Willan's Cook It Right (Reader's Digest, 1998). To order a copy of Cook It Right, call 1-800-788-6262.

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