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July 2009
Sautéed Red Mullet with Tomato Vinaigrette
Rougets Sautés à la Vinaigrette de Tomates
photo by France Ruffenach
Red mullet is
prized in France, as much for its brisk, almost gamey, taste as
for its brilliant skin. It’s a small fish, sometimes tiny, so more
than one may be needed per person. Any small whole fish,
particularly bream, can be used instead. The regional twist comes
with local oils: olive oil in the south, or walnut or hazelnut oil
further north. Vinegars range from artisan brews using red or
white wine, or perhaps Champagne, to the cider vinegar that has
long been a part of fish dishes in Normandy and Brittany. For
frying, olive or vegetable oil is best as most nut oils scorch
easily. With its pink skin and bright tomato garnish, this is one
of the prettiest fish dishes I know! As an accompaniment you
cannot do better than a salad of fresh greens or a lightly cooked
vegetable such as green beans.
Serves 4
- 4 red mullet
(about 10 ounces/280 grams each), cleaned and scaled
- 3 to 4
tablespoons flour, seasoned with salt and pepper
- 3 tablespoons/45
milliliters/1 1/2 fluid ounces olive or vegetable oil
Tomato vinaigrette
- 2 tablespoons
red wine vinegar
- Salt and pepper
- 6 tablespoons/90
milliliters/3 fluid ounces olive, walnut, or hazelnut oil
- 3 tomatoes
(about 1 pound/450 grams total), peeled, seeded, and chopped
- 1 tablespoon
chopped fresh chives
For the
vinaigrette, whisk the vinegar with salt and pepper in a small
bowl until the salt dissolves. Gradually add the oil, whisking
constantly so the dressing emulsifies and thickens lightly. Stir
in the tomatoes and chives, taste, and adjust the seasoning. The
dressing can be prepared an hour or so in advance.
Rinse and dry the
fish, handling them as lightly as possible. Trim off the fins and
cut the tails in a 'V'. Coat them with seasoned flour, patting off
the excess with your hands. Heat the oil in a large frying pan,
add the fish, backs towards you and heads facing to the left (this
ensures their best side is upwards for serving). Sauté them over
medium heat until lightly browned, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and brown
the other side, 3 to 4 minutes longer, depending on size. They
should just flake easily when tested with a fork. Transfer the
fish to warm serving plates, placing them with heads to the left
and stomach nearest the diner so the flesh is easy to lift from
the bones. Stir the dressing again briefly, spoon the cool
vinaigrette over the hot fish as a contrast, and serve at once.
Excerpted from THE COUNTRY COOKING OF FRANCE
by Anne Willan, Chronicle Books, 2007.
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